SAHARA
This story first appeared in "Surfer's
Path" magazine in 2003
Click HERE for photographs
of this trip. (opens in a new window)
It was no problem I'd confidently
told my friends, we can get money from a cash point when we reach Nouâdhibou,
"Trust me ", I'd said, "I've been there before ".
They'd trusted me and now here we were in the middle of the Sahara desert,
stuck in no-mans land without our passports, surrounded by landmines
and with nothing but a packet of biscuits and a litre of water to keep
us going, oh and I was buried up to my neck in sand whilst wearing two
wetsuits.
The original plan had been simple enough, fly into southern Morocco,
rent a jeep and cruise into the Sahara searching for surf. We'd wanted
a soulful kind of trip, rootsy and back to the basics, we were going
to be fully self sufficient, camp out under the desert stars and fish
for dinner every night....;It's amazing the ridiculous ideas that you
can come up with whilst sat at home in-front of the TV, I can't even
cook a fish, let alone catch one. However, even I have to admit that
the blind stupidity with which we'd
managed to turn ourselves into refugees was impressive and to be honest
I can only blame it on the atmosphere around us, you see, the problem
with Dakhla is that it has an air of excitement to it, it's a frontier
town with all the trimmings, much like the American Mid-West must have
been a hundred and fifty years ago, it's a place to come and rest and
enjoy yourself after spells in the tough lands beyond. If you want food
and drink you can get it here, a beds no problem and maybe, believe
it or not, even a girl. And like the cowboy states of old, guns are
visible on the streets, carried by soldiers and police guarding Morocco's
furthest frontier. If you thought the country to the north of town was
wild, just wait till you take the road south, the road that slowly peters
away to nothing and takes you back in time to Mauritania. It's impossible
to resist the frontier excitement that hangs over the town.
Aside from myself there were four others in the group, all friends from
my home town, fellow bodyboarders Rob Waldron, Mark Portwood and Tom
Bircham and the token stand up surfer of the trip, Eugene Tollemarche,
one of Britain's best underground riders. It was the first time we'd
been on a surf trip together and judging by the curt "No ",
response I've received every time I've suggested another trip to them
it was probably our last. In fact I'm coming to the impression that
they're holding me alone responsible
for the events that unfolded in and around Morocco's furthest frontier.
It is of course a charge that I disagree with, I mean I had nothing
to do with the aeroplane carrying us out from London being struck by
lightening or by us being held back for further questioning by Moroccan
immigration officials just because of a little oversight on my part
with some entry and exit stamps during my last Moroccan trip. Well,
OK maybe that was my fault, but it certainly wasn't me who snapped the
key of the rental jeep with a mere two and a half thousand kilometres
of desert between the spare and us.
Anyway these were all problems that were behind us, and now, as I lay
buried up to my neck in the sand cocooned inside two wetsuits in an
effort to keep warm during the icy desert night, I reflected on the
chain of events that had led to us becoming refugees.
It had all started a few years ago, after my first trip to the Western
Sahara, that time I'd pushed on right to the end of the desert and on
into West Africa, but it was the Western Sahara and Mauritania that
had left the deepest impressions and the most unanswered questions,
for it was here, that I felt, I had the best chance of finding high
quality, empty waves and so I vowed to return one day.
This new journey had begun way up to the north, right in the heart of
Morocco. There's a lot of coastline between the towns and cities of
northern Morocco and Dakhla and that means lots of opportunities to
discover virgin waves. We'd found a few and probably drove past many
more, right points and heavy beachbreaks; many of the coves and
bays we checked had both. And after several days of hunting we found
the wave of the trip, a powerful right breaking down a boulder strewn
point, some of the waves were fun in anyone's language, fast and walled
up with plenty of room to play with and maybe even a chance to tuck
under the lip and race the section. Others though were tricky, even
on bodyboards, with the swells hitting the take off spot with such speed
and ferocity that they mutated into square, treble lipped heaving caverns
of water that exploded into a messy climax of compressed air, sand and
spray.
However, like I said, the spirit of the frontier, it's hard to resist
and for us it was the coast south of Dakhla that had the real pull.
It used to be that you could only head south of Dakhla in military convoys,
and they didn't stop for surf until they reached Mauritania's second
city, Nouâdhibou. The last time I came I sat in a truck and watched
several hundred kilometres of almost unknown coast fly by the window.
Now though Morocco feels that it's safe enough to let you fend for yourself,
but only on the main road, the desert either side of you continues to
harbour the detritus of war, five million landmines lie buried and unexploded
under the drifting sands. It all began back in the '70's, after the
then King of Morocco, Hassen II marched 300,000 unarmed civilians into
what at the time was the Spanish Sahara and claimed the region for Morocco.
Spain threw in the towel instantly; it wasn't worth getting in a huff
over a bit of sand. However not all of the territories in-habitants
were completely bowled over by the idea of being Moroccan, even less
so Mauritanian or Algerian, both of whom quickly put in
claims and troops of their own. And so started a bitter little war between
Morocco, Mauritania, Algeria and the Polisario Front, (representing
the native Saharawi people). It is a war that, thanks to the regions
lack of significant oil reserves or strategic importance, has been largely
ignored by the rest of the world. Mauritania and Algeria pulled out
long ago and Morocco has effectively beaten the Saharawi's into submission
and taken control of the country. Today around 150,000 Saharawi's are
living and dying in Algerian refugee camps waiting for the day that
they can return to a homeland that is now one of the most heavily mined
places on earth. And if you think that's a mess, then Mauritania will
turn you to tears. It doesn't have war, but it does have state supported
racism, slavery, extreme poverty, draught and famine, a xenophobic government,
growing Islamic fundamentalism and little hope.
We never actually planned to cross the Mauritanian border, just to go
as far as the furthest frontier and then turn around, but things started
so well, we were just waved through the military road blocks with no
more than a cursory glance and a few questions, in the end we couldn't
really do anything else but try our luck. However as I wrote in the
very pages of this magazine after my first trip down Africa's desert
coast, "Mauritania is a no bullshit kind of country ". You
need visas and lots of other official looking bits of paper, none of
which we had. It's just not the sort of place you go to on the spur
of the moment. But when it came down to it the road only went one way
- would you turn around?
It was whilst we were still around a hundred kilometres from the border
that Tom began to question our preparations.
"So, do you really think
they're going to let us in without visas? "
"Well if they don't
then we just come back " I tried to sound as level headed about
it as possible. He didn't seem convinced and tried another approach,
"Well have we actually
brought enough cash with us to go to Mauritania ?"
"Of course "; I
reassured him, "And anyway we can get money from a cash point when
we reach Nouâdhibou. Trust me, I've been there before ".
Somewhat to our surprise when we reached the Moroccan side of the frontier
we were met by border guards who were friendly but adamant, yes they
would allow us to continue onto the Mauritanian border post and try
our luck without visas, but because we didn't have the papers for our
jeep we'd have to leave that back up the road and hitch across the border.
By now I'd had enough time to feed so many stories to
Eugene, Rob and Mark about the waves we were going to find in Mauritania
that it was out of the question to give up. And so, retracing our steps
fifty kilometres we found a suitable place to leave the jeep for a few
nights and prepared for a long wait for a lift, whilst Tom became ever
more pessimistic about the whole thing,
"There's no way there
will be a cash point there. It's Mauritania for god sake, how are we
going to get home again ?"
His cries were falling on
deaf ears, a jeep with a Mauritanian driver had already stopped and
Eugene, delighted to have found someone other than us to speak too,
was negotiating a price for a lift. Tom was still swearing under his
breath about what a bad idea all this was when we cleared through the
Moroccan customs and passed into no-mans land. The very moment we left
Morocco, the road, which up until this point had been largely smooth
tarmac, disappeared under a sand dune, never to re-emerge. As a pothole
threw us all forcibly from our seats for the umpteenth time in a hundred
metres I tried to reassure everyone that it was only fifteen kilometres
to the Mauritanian border post, Tom shot me a withering look and curled
himself up into a corner.
The Mauritanian border is marked by a flag pole, a blown up car and
what's essentially a garden shed in which were living a couple of extraordinarily
bored soldiers. They were friendly enough though and keen to talk with
us, at some point in the conversation I slipped in the news that we
may inadvertently have forgotten to get visas. Some
general muttering in Arabic followed before the elder of the two turned
back to us with a smile and told us that they'd be delighted to let
us into their country anyway, all it would cost was half of our remaining
cash. I've rarely seen someone look as pained as Tom did when he handed
over almost the last of his money. Don't worry we reassured him, we'd
be at a cash point in Nouâdhibou in no time, Eugene turned to
the border guards for back up and was met with laughter,
"Cash points in Mauritania?
Don't be silly. "
We finally made into Nouâdhibou and low and behold no cash points,
no big chain hotels in which to get a cash advance, no money transfer
centres, just lots of sand and dust. Tom did cheer up momentarily when
we found a place to stay, the manager of which claimed he could arrange
transport for us out to the beaches along the west coast of the long
peninsula on which Nouâdhibou sits and then he'd get us back to
the Western Sahara and we could pay him on arrival in Dakhla.
In between readings from the Koran the TV relayed pictures of what the
President had done that day, what he'd done on this day last year, what
he'd be doing tomorrow and what he'd looked like when he'd last done
the same thing. The audience in the little café where we'd chosen
to eat a meal to celebrate our arrival in Nouâdhibou couldn't
decide which was the more interesting viewing, the President watching
a military parade or Eugene trying to explain to a man who lives in
a country where no vegetation actually grows that he only wanted to
eat, well, vegetation. In the end our vegetarian couscous meals arrived,
complete with most of a goat. Pushing his plate away with a look of
resignation Eugene asked how much the million Ouguiyas we'd been quoted
by our hotel manager for the two day surf trip and journey back to the
Western Sahara actually was,
"Oh I don't think it's
much " replied Rob before reasoning "It's Mauritania, everything's
cheap ". Rob's sense of reason has never been up to much and a
few quick sums revealed that it was actually over two thousand Euros.
A strange noise emanated from the corner of the table where Tom was
sat.
By two that morning we were counting our remaining money for the twenty-third
time that night, each time hoping that we'd somehow overlooked a thousand
Euros. We'd realised that we actually had no choice now but to cut our
losses and try and hitch back
to our jeep as quickly as we could. The following morning found us sat
in a dusty bit of waste ground at the edge of town almost as soon as
the sun came up, waiting for some form of transport north. Six hours
later a vehicle, that at one period in a long forgotten past had been
a transit van, pulled up and offered us a ride not just to the border,
but all the way to our jeep. In exchange all they wanted was every single
penny we had, aside from enough for a packet of biscuits and a bottle
of water. I really thought Tom was going to kiss the driver.
As we trundled along at a speed that probably amounted to somewhat less
than walking pace our fellow passengers and us were in high spirits.
For us it was because we seemed to have got ourselves out of what could
have been a very expensive situation and for our fellow passengers it
was because they'd got some foreigners to practise their one line of
English on, over and over again. When we finally reached the Mauritanian
border post we were greeted like old friends with handshakes, laughter
and
"You see we told you,
no cash points in Mauritania. Why did you only stay a day? "
We smiled as best we could
and waited for them to hand our passports back. After a good bit of
waiting we asked for them back,
"Oh no don't worry we'll
keep them for you, we'll go and give them to the Moroccan border guards
right now. Off you go, your drivers waiting for you ".
It's a bizarre feeling being a refugee, a strange kind of hopelessness,
here we were, stuck in the middle of the Sahara desert unable to move
more than a couple of hundred metres in any direction for fear of treading
on a landmine, arguing over the division of a pack of banana cream biscuits
and forbidden to move north or south just because someone thousands
of kilometres away had at some point, drawn a random line in the sand
that marked the end of one country and the beginning of the next. It
was dark by now, but the stars were bright enough for me to clearly
see the other four, curled up in their warm sleeping bags, I'd foolishly
left mine back in the jeep, believing I wouldn't
need it, in fact I'd told the others to leave theirs behind as well,
but even back then they were learning not to trust me. I tried to wriggle
a bit deeper under the sand in an attempt to keep warm and as I was
doing this two thoughts kept going through my head. What else but surfing
would drive a person to get themselves into this situation? And what
would I do if I needed a piss in the night whilst wearing two wetsuits?
Of course when we'd finally reached the Moroccan border, several hours
earlier, it was already shut for the night and our passports, well they
were nowhere to be seen, "Don't worry ", our driver had reassured
us, "It's no problem, trust me, I've been here before !"
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